Tuesday
June 8, 2010
How time flies! After a great night sleep we grab some shots of the big house next door and a quick breakfast of Trader Joe’s instant oatmeal (or was it Costco’s?), then it was off for our first day of exploring Eleuthera with high hopes. Our first stop was Lighthouse Point at the most southern point of the island, or at least that was the plan. The road signs on the way down were all pretty much hand-painted, and the further south we drove the fewer there were. When we reached what looked like the end of the main road there were several dirt roads to choose from and no signs so after we took one that led nowhere fast we stopped and asked for directions. It didn’t take long before we both knew we might have to change plans for the day. The dirt road quickly deteriorated into something requiring at least better tires and more ground clearance than what we had and possibly 4WD (we turned around at a steep hill after about 45 agonizingly slow minutes of crawling along). At one point a Toyota Forerunner passed us encouraging us to continue (and suggesting that if we ran into problems they were at least in the area and could offer help/assistance), but given our lack of clearance and confidence in our car (not to mention our bald front tires), and the fact we were miles from anywhere without a phone or other means to call for help if we flatted or punctured the oil pan we decided to bail on this one. Too bad, everyone that has been there says it’s spectacular, but it will have to wait for another day.
As we headed back north to a spot we had read about for lunch and snorkeling some locals beckoned us to stop at this tower on a hill with a 360 degree view of the area, which we did. It was worth the 20 minute delay but at this point it was getting later in the afternoon and we still hadn’t eaten lunch (starting to feel like yesterday!). Without much of a map and only a few directions or road signs we per chance happened upon the place we were looking for, and although it was late in the day our host Ruby obliged us with a delicious home-cooked meal (her home is the ‘beach’ restaurant/bar on the bluff overlooking the ocean). Again the atmosphere was very authentically Eleutheran (kitschy and, well, cheap, weathered and old) but the food was great and we had some conversational company this time (some guy on a business trip studying the area for an eco-resort).
Instead of snorkeling there which we should have done after lunch, we went in search of this other place which turned out to be a big inland water hole, presumably fed by the ocean, but it just didn’t look very appealing and frankly we were both tired and a little frustrated so we headed back towards Governor’s Harbor and nearby Pineapple Fields where we had originally booked our stay in hopes of a good beach and swim until dinner. Turns out the beach was narrower than expected but beautiful and the water cool, plus we had the place to ourselves so we just swam and hung out until dinner at Tippy’s located at the end of the beach/bay. Several people had recommended the place – the people were warm and friendly and the food was excellent but the best part was the view and proximity to the ocean.
It was a good day all in all but more of an adventure than we had hoped, and frankly a little disappointing since we didn’t see Lighthouse Point or go snorkeling. Still, beats being back home in Seattle…

Some shots of the big house. Pretty cool table although when I bumped it I thought it was going to roll away…




Nice kitchen…something we didn’t have in our unit (it wasn’t that ours wasn’t, we just didn’t have one).

Even the ceilings were stylish.

The walkway from the front porch to the street.

Once that was out of our system we hit the road. First stop, an old sign on the side of the road.

In case you were wondering, ‘the road’…

The only shot we (Sara) got of our efforts to drive the dirt road to Lighthouse Point…doesn’t look too bad in the photo but trust me, in our little Toyota it was treacherous to say the least. OK, is ‘tenuous’ any better? Whatever, it was intense…

Since we didn’t make it to Lighthouse Point I didn’t take any other shots until we stopped at the tower. This is the old ruin at the top of the hill/base of the tower. The shots that follow are from or around the tower.






Rubies for lunch. Cute, but not what you call 5 star (not that we were looking for 5 star mind you).

The bar…not hopping at this time of day although there were 7 other people at the place while we were.

Outdoor dining area.

The view.

Back on the road and a stop at a beach-side ruin.



One of the beaches we stopped at looking for a place to snorkel…didn’t find it here, but was still pretty.



Some shots from the town/settlement of Tarpum Bay. Some of the buildings like this look like they were around when pirates roamed these parts…probably were.



Our last stop of the day – the beach across the street from Pineapple Fields where Tippy’s is located.

You know me, can’t resist a closeup of something interesting, even if it’s the sand after the waves wash back into the ocean.

Like I said, narrow beach. Probably wider at low tide as there’s a considerable drop off in the sand where the waves were crashing.

Don’t know where this trail lead to but it was intriguing…

While I explored Sara decompressed from the adventure of the day.

Heading up the beach for my towel and swim trunks. Enough photos, time to swim…

A view of Tippy’s on the way back to the car. They assured me that know one had ever been bitten by a shark here.

Sara hadn’t moved while I was away and with some assurances that sharks this late in the day weren’t an issue she joined me in the water (I think she figured if they hadn’t gotten me yet she was safe, or at least if they did they’d go for the bigger meal first). Either way the water was beautiful.

Waiting for our ‘reservations’ time before dinner outside on Tippy’s deck as are the detail shots that follow. Lovely and charming…seriously, why would this be such a bad place to live?

Close up of the table where Sara was sitting…authentic wouldn’t you say? Nothing phony around here.

Old mine or old buoy outside the patio deck.

The view. See what I mean?


Yet another stray we wanted to take home. Bahamian dogs are the only dogs known to look both ways before crossing the street (no lie). This one was looking for some handouts but was also running along the beach and playing/swimming in the ocean…either having fun or trying to rid himself of flees.

Yup, I was actually there.

Finally we’re hungry enough for dinner…Sara contemplating which conch dishes to order (she got 2). Me? I ordered the chicken…still not confident I can eat seafood without a reaction.

The waiters haul this large menu board around from table to table, but it’s charming.

The smaller version for drinks or regular menu items (I think the larger one was for specials or limited offerings).

I did mention that even the ceilings are charming…and I mean just about every place we went the ceilings were beautiful, stylish or charming. Maybe it’s because none of them are dry wall…

Cleaver door handles.

A look through the screen doors…the only thing between us and the ‘noseeums’.

I kept running back out to the deck to photograph the sunset at least until I finally started embarrassing Sara. I couldn’t help myself, what can I say?
We went home full and satisfied after the long day. Life in Paradise for at least another day ahead…